Mount Fansipan. Mount Fansipan is the tallest mountain in Indochina reaching a lofty height of 3,134 meters above sea level. Located in the Hoang Lien Son Mountain Range, Fansipan is an excellent way to add an adventurous hike into a visit to Vietnam. The mountain is approximately 9 km away from the Sapa, a town surrounded by spectacular rice terraces and beautiful mountains.
Atop of Mount Fansipan, in great contrast to the meandering hiking trails, is a vast Pagoda complex with the Great Amitabha Buddha statue. The 21.5 meters high bronze statue sits upon a beautifully decorated pedestal at an altitude of 3,075 meters.
There are several ways to hike to the summit of Mount Fansipan, the most popular and shortest is the Tram Ton route. The longest multiday option is the Sin Chai route. The third option would be to take the cable car, but this is option I would not recommend as you would fail to enjoy the beauty of trekking to the summit.
The popular Tram Ton route can be trekked in either 1 or 2 days. The ascent is 11.2 km making it a 22.4 km round trip with 1600m of total elevation gain. If feeling fit this can be done in a day but if a gentler pace is desired, opt for a 2-day trek. The 2-day trek has an overnight at a camp at about 2 200 m where you will have a hot meal before sleeping at altitude. The following day will be a hike in the predawn to enjoy a sunrise at the summit.
To trek Mount Fansipan it is obligatory to hire a guide. Failure to do so could result in a hefty 10 million VND (£330) fine. To hire a guide there are 3 main options:
- Go to the tourist information centre in SAPA.
- Arrange a guide through a hotel/hostel you are staying in.
- Go out onto the streets of Sapa or the surrounding towns and ask the locals.
From my experience, it is better to ask at your hotel/hostel because the cost was less than arranging through the tourist information centre. It would probably be most cost effective to go directly to a local guide, but there could be more risk in this approach.
When I trekked Mount Fansipan, I opted to complete the trek in 1 day as that is all the time I had. Initially I thought about arriving at the entrance to the trail in the early hours of the morning and stealthily entering the park, but the prospect of a 10 million VND fine was enough to deter my schemes. Instead, I arranged the trek for £90 through the hostel I was staying in. The women who arranged the trek gave me dire warnings of the severity of the trek and that it could take up to 12 hours. Surely 22 km won’t take 12 hours?
I woke up at an unsociable time of 04:00 so I could get some breakfast and coffee down before my guide came to pick me up at 05:00. The guide was Zeh, from the ethnic Black Hmong. Standing at less than 5 ft/152 cm, her stamina and endurance was remarkable.
She had been guiding tourists like me up and down the mountain for 6 days straight. I rode pillion on her scooter to the Tram Ton entrance where she approached the person(s) at the park entrance to show them the entrance fee had been paid.
Unfortunately, on the day of my hike, thick clouds covered the upper reaches of the mountain. These clouds are very typical in the region and can cover the view for days if not weeks in a row before clearing to give spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and rice terraces.
The trek begins by following a very well-worn foot path and along a river before ascending through dense forests. A strong insect repellent is advisable as there are plenty of mosquitos in this area. The trek was pleasant and Zeh and I were keeping up a good pace.
I was fascinated to learn about the Ethnic Black Hmong and quite humbled to find that she, although her excellent grasp with languages, was unschooled. This is sadly the way of many of the Black Hmong. As we ascended the trail, we had to navigate some exposed sections requiring climbing ladders or metal rungs drilled into the rock. Very much like a low level via ferrata in Europe. Zeh had astonishing balance and grace as she quickly hiked through the uneven terrain, making me feel like a drunk tourist as I stomped along behind her.
The treeline thinned as we gained altitude but as the trees receded, the fog and mist thickened obscuring any view. After a couple hours we reached the hut which is used by people who are on a 2-day trek. It was a bit dilapidated but more than comfortable for an atmospheric overnight. A group were getting ready to head back down the trail after completing the ascent in the early morning to catch the sunrise. Unfortunately, the thick clouds stopped any chance of seeing the sunrise.
Zeh and I pressed on, and as we climbed up the compact dirt trail, we met another group of hikers, I was astonished by how few people were on the trail, but it was off season being mid May. Finally, after 3 hours a looming structure appeared out of the gloom, this was part of the enormous cable car system. As I walked around this building other structures emerged from the fog. The first was an enormous bell tower and then the beginning of the Pagoda.
The Pagoda is vast and in complete contrast to the rest of the trail. Unlike the quiet trails, I was surrounded by a throng of people who had arrived via the cable car. There were small food and drinks venders selling overpriced refreshments.
Finely carved stone steps lead all the way up to the colossal bronze Buddha perched upon an ornately decorated column. Finally, a few more stairs and I was atop of the highest peak in the Indochina.
I will be honest, the summit, in my opinion, was very underwhelming. This is mostly due to the heavy fog which obscured any views but also the mass of people all jostling to have their photo taken at the top. It could have been Snowdon in the UK or any other overcrowded mountain. A lower altitude Everest… Needless to say, I did not stay long but before I left, Zeh had a surprise in store.
She approached me and presented me with a medal and certificate. I burst out laughing as I found the whole idea of being presented a medal for climbing a mountain very funny, but I gratefully accepted these items and then we set off back down the trail.
As we descended the cloud cover lifted, it still enveloped the top of the mountain but the visibility down to the valley below was clear, and what a sight it was.
We stopped at the hut which we passed on the way up for a sandwich. From here we continued down the trail, eventually overtaking the group we had passed at the hut in the morning.
Finally, after a total of 7.5 hours we were back at the trail head. A lot less time than the threatened 12 hours.
From the trail my key take away points are:
- Wear appropriate footwear. Trail shoes will do but flip flops will not.
- Take plenty of water, it is unlikely you will be able to resupply on route so if it is hot, take 3 litres.
- Choose a suitable trail. There are many options, if you think a 1 day would be too much, go for 2. Importantly you want to enjoy this hike and not just thrash yourself up a mountain.
- Ask around to find the best price.
