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This section of the GR11 marks a striking transition — leaving behind the high, snowy alpine peaks of Aragón as the trail enters Catalonia. Although the snow gradually disappears, you’ll still cross lofty mountain passes and encounter some of the most spectacular glacial lakes along the entire route.
After bidding farewell to Jakub at Camping Aneto, I continued roughly along the GR11 toward Tavascan. Armed with a map and compass, I strayed from the main trail at times, choosing alternative routes and summiting nearby peaks that caught my eye now that the serious snow conditions were behind me.
These stages led me to Refugio d’Angliós — one of the most stunning mountain huts on the GR11 — to the summit of Montardo, through the magnificent Parque Nacional d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, and finally into the atmospheric, abandoned village of Bordes de Nibros. Expect long, demanding days and rising temperatures as you make your way deeper into Catalonia.
Notes for Entering Catalonia:
- Resupply: Once you leave Puente de San Chaime, there are no opportunities to resupply until Espot. If you’re not staying in the manned refuges, plan to carry enough food for 4–5 days.
- Heat: The temperatures increase noticeably as you enter Catalonia.
- Recommended Route: The alternative trail past Lac de Mar (Cicerone Stage 23) is exceptional and highly recommended.
- Elevation: Continue to expect big elevation gains and descents — but by now, your legs should be well prepared for the challenge.
- Tip: Hotel Llacs de Cardós in Tavascan offers a reduced rate for hikers.
29th June – Camping Aneto to Refugio Puen del Corones
Cicerone Stage 21
I left Camping Aneto with my pack loaded full of supplies, knowing it would be several days before the next opportunity to restock. The weight made me feel both burdened and strangely solitary as I set off. After a rest day, I didn’t want to push too hard, so I planned for an easy stage — five days to reach Espot, while Jakub aimed to do it in just three.
My goal for the day was modest: about three hours of walking, stopping early at one of the refugios along the route. The first stretch followed good, if somewhat unremarkable, tracks until I reached Refugio d’el Quillón — which turned out to be swarming with ants. Definitely not a place to stay the night!
Another forty minutes of steady climbing brought me to Refugio Puen del Corones, an enormous shelter with enough space for ten to fourteen people. A couple, Richard and Rakel, arrived about an hour later, and together we ventured out into the damp, grey afternoon to gather what dry firewood we could find. Miraculously, Richard managed to coax a fire to life in no time, and soon we were sitting by the warmth, the sound of rain outside making the refuge feel wonderfully snug and peaceful.
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30th June – Refugio Puen del Corones to Refugio d’Angliós via a “Dicken Planned Detour”
Cicerone Stage 21 and 22
The night before, I studied my maps and came up with a detour for the day. I planned to leave the GR11 to climb Pic de Vallibierna (3,067 m), then follow the ridge back down to rejoin the trail. The morning was cloudy, and I wasn’t sure if the detour would be feasible, but I decided to give it a try. If the ridge looked too technical, I could always descend through Vall de Llauset and pick up the GR11 alternative.
A few kilometres into the day, I left the safety of the GR11 with a “boots off” river crossing. I nearly slipped in — ending up with a wet backside but thankfully dry boots. On the far bank, I made my way across untouched ground to locate a faint path marked on my map. Once found, the thin trail led into a cirque beneath Pic de Vallibierna, where I began the steep ascent of Col de Culebrus (2,792 m).
The 1,200 metre climb was both physically and mentally demanding. Cairns were few and far between, so I relied on my own mountaineering judgment: scrambling, careful route-finding, and navigating wet rock and steep gullies. Nearing the summit, I looked for a direct route to the left but it appeared too risky, so I continued toward a nearby col. The terrain turned to loose scree, making the climb increasingly dangerous. I was forced to downclimb ten metres and traverse right across about twenty before finding firmer ground that led safely up to the col.
From there, the views were spectacular. I could see the ridge I had intended to follow, but it looked far too serious for a solo hiker carrying a full pack. I continued along a faint scree path toward Col de Llauset (2,865 m), with breathtaking views down to Estany Llauset below.
I dropped my pack and began a short climb toward Pic de Vallibierna, but soon lost motivation — the ascent to the col had already been challenging and rewarding enough. In hindsight, I slightly regret not pushing for the summit, but it’s always better to err on the side of caution in the mountains.
From Estany Llauset, I followed a path along the northern shore before ascending Col d’Angliós, where the landscape opened up magnificently.
Below me lay Refugio d’Angliós, a beautiful, weather-worn wooden hut nestled among lakes and mountains — a truly stunning sight.
The refugio itself is full of character and charm. While I was resting inside, seven Spaniards arrived — incredibly friendly people who even offered me a beer.
A very good day indeed.
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1st July – Refugio d’Angliós to Lac de Mar Wild Camp
Cicerone Stage 22 and 23.
My legs no longer felt rested after the 1,400 metres of climbing the day before. After coffee and breakfast, I left the refugio and continued through the spectacular landscape. Eventually, the path towards Conangles descended into woodland. Thanks to the recent rain, the steep trail was muddy and slippery, and great care was needed. Near the bottom I passed large boulders hidden among the trees — a developed climbing area with numbered problems, one to return to in the future.
After a short road section, I reached Refugi de Conangles, which was sadly closed. It had only taken three hours from Refugio d’Angliós, but I was already feeling the strain. I set off on Stage 23, which begins with a steep and steady ascent to Port de Rius (2,355 m). Along the way I met Everleigh, a German woman walking the GR11 in the opposite direction. We sat for a while, shared our complaints about the poor weather of the last few days, then continued in our respective directions.
As I climbed higher, the fog rolled in, and by the time I reached Lac de Rius the scene had turned dark and gloomy. Still, I wanted to take the HRP variation that passes around Lac de Mar. The trail meandered gently around rocks, small crags, and streams, passing a chain of lakes and rivers.
It was beautiful but I was tired, and the final ascent before descending to Lac de Mar felt long and heavy. When I finally reached the lake, the fog began to lift, revealing jagged peaks reflected in the still water — a moment that made all the effort worthwhile.
I camped on a flat spot on the southern shore of the lake. Later, I saw what I think was an otter swimming across the water. It climbed onto a rock, stared at me for a few seconds, then slipped silently back into the lake. I was exhausted, but it had been another very good day.
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2nd July – Lac de Mar Wild Camp to Roofless Refugi Orbago
Cicerone Stage 23, 24 and 25
After being confined to my tent the night before due to light rain, it was wonderful to wake beside the lake with the high peaks poking through the fog. The reflection on the still, crystal-clear water was magical.
After packing up camp, I continued around the lake to rejoin the GR11 and hiked towards Refugi dera Restanca.
From there I followed the GR11-18, a steep and spectacular trail leading up to Tuc de Monges. The scenery was astonishingly beautiful — countless lakes, jagged peaks, and vast open views. A real mountain paradise.
I continued on to climb Montardo (2,833 m). The ascent was steep but straightforward, and I drew a few odd looks from day hikers, trudging up with my 55-litre pack.
The views from the summit made the short detour well worth the effort, and I would highly recommend adding it to your itinerary for this stage.
While eating lunch below the summit, I made the mistake of trying to shoo away some nosy cows. One of them took offence and charged towards me, bellowing furiously as I scrambled up the slope to higher ground. Bloody cows.
After escaping over Port de Caldes (2,570 m), I continued to Refugi de Colomèrs, where I enjoyed a well-earned cold beer. Or two.
The trail from there was easy and scenic, winding gently for a couple of hours to Lac d’Orbago, where the roofless Refugi d’Orbago stands in quiet decay. Fortunately, the derelict building still has two levels, and I was able to sleep on the ground floor, sheltered from the light rain through the night.
Note: This area lies within the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and camping is not permitted. If you must bivouac, arrive late, leave early, and stay discreet.
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3rd July – Roofless Refugi Orbago to a Campsite in Espot
Cicerone Stage 25
I woke early, around six, to a view of nothing. Dense fog surrounded the refugio, swallowing the landscape completely.
I packed up and began the climb to Port de Ratera (2,590 m). As I ascended, the fog began to thin, and before long I was above it, looking down on a blanket of cloud pooled in the valleys below.
At the col, I decided to climb Tuc de Ratera (2,857 m), I could not miss an opportunity to see the cloud inversion from a new high point. The ascent was steep but easy enough, and the view from the summit was absolutely breath taking — a dragon-like ridge rising sharply through the clouds below.
After a quick descent, I rejoined the GR11. The section down to Estany de Sant Maurici was astonishing. The combination of lakes, ridges, and solitude made it one of the most beautiful stretches so far.
Eventually I reached the tourist path, suddenly surrounded by crowds of day hikers. On the descent I had a close encounter with a large stag that wandered past just five metres away, utterly unbothered by my presence.
The rest of the walk towards Espot was stunning — wild mountains slowly giving way to gentle forest and meadow.
In town, I ran into Richard and Rakel, and we enjoyed a well-earned lunch together before parting ways.
I stayed at a nearby campsite (the name escapes me) where the owner was exceptionally grumpy. My mood wasn’t much better after I accidentally put all my dirty clothes in the tumble dryer instead of the washing machine. D’oh.
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4th July – Campsite Espot to Nou Camping
Cicerone Stage 26
There were big storms during the night, so at least my dirty clothes got a wash. It was a rest day of sorts. Heavy rain fell through the morning, followed by another powerful storm at midday. After resupplying — my first since the 29th — I packed up and began the short walk to La Guingueta. It was only about ten kilometres in total. The first half followed pleasant forest trails, while the second was along the road.
I stayed at Nou Camping, whose owners were far less grumpy than the last place. To my surprise, I ran into Richard and Rakel again, and we spent a relaxed evening together. The weather, however, remained unstable, with more storms on the way.
5th July – Nou Camping to Room in an Abandoned Village
Cicerone Stage 27 and 28
10 km, 1,300 meters up, 1,000 meters down.
It wasn’t as bad as I’d expected. The guidebook gave 5 hours 35 minutes for the section, but I managed it in five hours and, for once, avoided any storms or rain. The trail from Nou Camping passes through Dorve, an almost abandoned village where only one man still lives. As I was leaving the village, I met another hiker who looked surprised to hear that I was wild camping — apparently this is bear country!
From Dorve, the real climb to Coll de Montcaubo began. It was steep but steady. I later realised I’d missed the old machine-gun bunker that’s pictured in the Cicerone guide. I stopped briefly at Refugio Estaon, where I had a truly terrible sandwich — confirming my decision not to stay the night there. After that culinary disappointment, I followed easy trails for about an hour to reach Bordes de Nibros.
I wandered among the derelict stone buildings, searching for somewhere to rest. Most of the doors were locked, offering no shelter. Eventually, near the top of the village, I found one open door leading into a small single room — just big enough for me to sleep.
I was hugely grateful for the hard cover, as yet again, heavy storms rolled through during the night.
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6th July – Room in an Abandoned Village to Tavascan
Cicerone Stage 28
During the night, I was woken by a strange chiming sound echoing through the ruins. It thoroughly freaked me out for a while — sleeping alone in an abandoned village, strange noises in the dark… But the mystery was soon solved: it was just two donkeys coming to say hello.
As I left the village in the morning, I met Kevin, an Irish GR11 hiker. We chatted for a while before parting ways. The hike from Bordes de Nibros should have been beautiful, but my boots got soaked early on and I spent most of the day in a terrible mood.
When I finally reached Tavascan, I checked into Hotel Llacs de Cardós, which offers a reduced rate for hikers — bed, breakfast and dinner for €64. By chance, I bumped into Kevin again, and we shared a great meal together. The food was excellent, and the wine was plentiful — probably a bit too plentiful. Not a bad end to a wet-boot day.
If this guide helped you plan your own GR11 adventure, you can support the blog by buying me a coffee – it keeps the stories coming!
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