The beginning of the GR11 starts in Cabo de Higuer, setting off from the frigid water of Atlantic Ocean. The next days are spent passing through the green rolling hills of the Basque Country. The hiking through the Basque Country is challenging and should not be underestimated especially with trail legs yet to be broken in. The GR11 passes through quiet rural villages, dense woodland and over rolling hills. Even though the Basque mountains are not very large, their constant undulation is physically very tiring.
Hiking from Cabo de Higuer to (a bit past) Isaba, including an early rest day due to rolling my ankle, took 8 days. The main difficulty I encountered was the unstable weather that dogged the early days. I often had to stop hiking early in the afternoon due to colossal lightning storms that rolled through, soaking everything in it wake.
The Basque Country is beautiful, the people kind and the food excellent. However, I was really excited to get stuck into the real mountains in the next section which will be described in another blog.
Key Points from Hiking the Basque Country:
- Be aware of the forecast, the afternoon storms arrive suddenly and can be dangerous!!
- Take poles to fend off aggressive dogs as well as provide knee support.
- Camping Zuriza is closed.
- The Camino hikers in Burguete can be very loud in the morning
- A lot of the bothy’s indicated in the Circrone book are in good condition!
- Basque people are very kind especially to hikers (in my experience)
04/06 – Cabo de Higuer to Bera
I set of from Cabo de Higuer, having been to the official start at the Faro de Higuer lighthouse the day before. I dipped my toes in the cold ocean as for me, the real start was in the ocean!
The first couple stages in the Cicerone guide are long but completing the 7km to the lighthouse the day before shortened things. As I left the sleepy town, Irun, I was suddenly blasted with noise as over a hundred lycra-clad cyclists passed in a blur of pedals and bright colours. As soon as they had come the moment was over.
The trails through the valleys were magical, rolling green hills in layers as far as the eye can see. It reminded me of the mountains in South Wales. The trail continues through pastures and woodlands towards Bera but along the way I paused at Ermita de St. Anton, where there is a shaded seating area and a water tap. Finally, I stopped at the top of a hill about a kilometre away from Bera in a clearing behind an electricity pylon. It was a nice camp, a bit spikey but flat. Watch out for ticks!!
Sadly I have no pictures of this day as my phone broke.
05/06 – Bera to Elizondo
I woke in dense fog, but as this cleared, I had a view of a spectacular cloud inversion. The morning from Bera was hot and the early climbs were hard work especially as I was not feeling very used to my rucksack. In the early afternoon as I was reaching the high exposed Collado de Inaberri, the sky turned astonishingly fast from clear blue to a dark, ominous grey. The first flashes of lightning and rumbles of thunder lit up the oppressing darkness that had arrived so suddenly.
Feeling very exposed I wanted to find shelter and to my right was a small woodland. I remembered the children’s television programme Blue Peter once saying, “do not hide under trees in a lightning storm” but the alternative was to be the highest thing on an open hilltop. Once “safely under the trees” I left my poles and bag to one side as the lightning passed directly overhead. Where I had planned to camp was now waterlogged so I pushed on down the hill to a picnic site about an hour out of Elizondo. Here I pitched my tent and tried to dry out.
Advertisement – Go Outdoors
06/06 – Elizond to Collado de Urballo
I packed up and hiked to Elizondo. Everything was damp but the view into the valley was beautiful as the mist rose from the surrounding woodlands.
The path down to Elizondo, a picturesque town, with wonderful weaving streets passing steep houses, was through an ancient woodland with gnarled moss covered trees and fascinating plants laden in the morning dew.
After walking back to Elizondo, I found an open shop where I could buy a phone. I was not relying on GPS to navigate but I needed a phone for emergencies and to keep family and friends back home updated on my progress. Finally at 1145 I left just as the heat of the day was coming.
In Elizondo I needed to buy a new phone as mine had given up the ghost in the previous days storm, not a great start. I then planned to hike for 4 hours out of the town but the stress of the day before and a bad night’s sleep left me low on energy. As a compromise I only hiked for a couple hours to a hunter’s cabin at Collado de Urballo. Here there was water and a place to hide from the afternoons lightning storm.
I rested by the cabin until the evening when I pitched my tent subtly. Not a dreamy start to the GR11 but I wasn’t to be put off.
Advertisement – Go Outdoors
07/06 – Collado de Urballo to Burguete
Wanting to catch up on the previous day, I planned to hike to Burguete, so had packed and departed early.
The trial to meander through green pasture and over undulating hills before dropping down towards Puerto de Urkiago via a exposed grassy ridges where I was buffeted by the wind.
Here I was charged by a sheep dog. I was alerted to something running at me by the sound of feet pounding the ground. I turned quickly with my poles in front of me and shouted forcing it away as it snapped at me before retreating. Top tip, carry poles. They are useful dog deterrents.
At the end of the stage, I reached an old military bunker which was dark, damp and oppressive. Full of leaves and other trash left over the years, I chose to use the small wall outside to rest on and make coffee.
The next few passed through and ancient woodland with tree packed closely together creaking in the wind. It was calming walking through the wood listening to the birds chirping in the branches. When the trees thinned, the walking was through wet pastures with a small stream crossing. Eventually I arrived at the Refugio, Albergu Sorogain where I purchased an ENORMOUS baguette.
Full of baguette I climbed my first summit, Menditixipi, 1213 m.
From Menditixipi, I followed a laborious forestry track all the way to Burguete. Burguete is a popular town for those walking the Camino de Santiago. I stayed in Lorentx, a small hostel set up predominantly to tend for Camino hikers. It had good facilities where I was able to hand wash my clothes.
08/06 – Burguete to Hirriberri
In the morning, I continued through quiet woods before ascending above the trees and into vast green meadows.
The meadows were brim full of wildflowers of every colour; it was mesmerising to watch the wind blow the grasses like waves in a calm ocean.
In the background to the colourful waves was the first view of steep limestone cliffs, erupting out of the ground in the distance.
The descent into Obara was, as described, was steep. Upon arrival, it felt like the start of a zombie movie. It was deserted.
Even the bar, which was open, had no staff or people inside. As there was no point in staying and hiked the final hour to Hirriberri. Camping sites along this section were far and few between so after the terrible night’s sleep, I opted for a bed again. I stayed in Casa Agurre where I bumped into a couple who were also hiking a section of the GR11.
We played Pelota in a deserted sports hall next door. Pelota is like squash but traditionally in the Basque Country it is played with your bare hands. Not having enough calluses for this we opted to play with rackets. After an hour of running around, not what you need on a long hike, I narrowly lost. We finished the evening by headed to the only bar for food.
Advertisement – Osprey
09/06 – Hirreberri to Ochagavia
Bidding farewell to my friends, the GR11 winds its way up the limestone cliffs of Berrendi.
The going was tough, but I had made good time up to the exposed limestone paved summit of Adobi Occidental Idorrokia when I was caught by another impressive storm. The morning had been calm and pleasant but the storm now drove horizontal rain into my face and the lighting was too close for comfort. Luckily I came across a hut, which as it was lacking doors, wasn’t ideal to sleep in, but provided wonderful shelter from the storm.
Once the worst of the storm past I continued down the soaking hill towards Ochagavia. Sadly I rolled my ankle pretty badly an hour from the village on the wet limestone, so I hobbled slowly into Camping Osate. Upon arrival I was alarmed to find the campsite was full due to a mountain bike race in the village. As I attempted to check in, I pointed at my bag and said, “It is only me and my tent is small?”
The manager looked at my bag, asked me to wait, then sometime later came back and gave me permission to stay in the corner of the campsite. Unbelievably grateful, I set up my tent and rested.
10/06 – Full days rest. My ankle was pretty swollen.
Advertisement – Go Outdoors
11/06 – Ochagavia to a hut near Merendero de Zotrapea
Once again there were storm forecast for the afternoon so to break the day and to give my ankle more time I hike for 2 and a half hours to a bothy. The trail followed forestry tracks which were steep and rather uninteresting. I was 5 minutes away from the hut when the storm rolled in and oh boy was it a big one. Making it to the hut I jumped in and slammed the door behind me, grateful to be escaping this one.
Advertisement – Go Outdoors
12/06 – Hut near Merendero de Zotrapea to a hut next to Camping de Zuriza
I had packed up and left by 6:30. After continuing along the track from the hut, I ascended into the woods where I had my first taste of leaving the Basque Country. I could see the “whaleback” ridge of Pena Ezkaurri and with the sun rising to the east lighting up a cloud inversion in the valley. I was excited to be entering the mountainous terrain.
I arrived in Isaba by 9:30 and popped into a café. Whilst having a coffee and pastry I chatted with a man who’d been cycling the Pyrenees in the opposite direction. Between his limited English and my poor Spanish, I came to learn that Camping de Zuriza was shut, the low trail was very muddy and there was a bothy.
My plan was to climb Pena Ezkaurri before staying in the campsite where I could resupply. Thankfully having spoken to the cyclist, I knew that I needed to carry supplies for the next 4 days. So I ruled out an ascent of Pena Ezkaurri as I would be slow after packing more supplies.
With a heavy bag, I took the lower trail to the now closed Camping de Zuriza. There was a large hut which was locked but a bit further down the road was an old stone bothy which slept in for the night. Opposite the bothy was a river and a small waterfall to wash in.
Thoughts from the beginning: The GR11 through the Basque Country had been a challenge. The terrain was undulating and although not technically difficult, it was physically very tiring. I had encountered challenging weather, my phone had broken and I had rolled my ankle. Still I had hiked through ancient woodlands, fought a dog, passed through colourful meadows and grassy ridges. The GR11 was delivering everything I had wanted and even though it had not been an ideal start, the Basque Country was beautiful, the people kind and the food excellent.
However, I was excited to get stuck into the real mountains!!
If you have any questions about the GR11 please ask away and I will do my best to give accurate information and honest answers. Thanks for reading.
Advertisement – Inov8
The blog contains several affiliate links, if you purchase anything after clicking one of these links I receive a small commission which will go towards maintaining this blog. To date I have made a WHOPPING £1.08. Thank you to that person.
