Probably one of the most famous and iconic cliffs in the region, the Arch Wall rises out of the valley with a sense of drama that’s impossible to ignore. Its centre is split by the incredible, majestic and striking line of Saif Din — a route first climbed by early pioneers of the area: Jim Fotheringham, Ben Wintringham and Derek Walker.
This is a crag known for big, adventurous lines, often running to four or five pitches and demanding commitment, nerve and a healthy respect for loose rock. Bowline, the route we ended up climbing, proved to be no exception.
Route Facts
- Crag: Arched Wall
- Grade: E2/E3 depending on conditions (Bowline)
- Length: 3 pitches + scramble
- Style: Steep corner, face climbing, wide crack/chimney
- Approach: ~1 hour from a small village — remote and committing
- Recommended for: Experienced trad climbers comfortable with wide gear and loose rock
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Approach
From the village of Injaren, linked here, the walk to the base of the Arched Wall takes around an hour. The path isn’t always obvious: it weaves through desolate terrain, following a dried-up riverbed to an abandoned settlement. The trail passes straight through this cluster of abandoned buildings before continuing toward the wall.
For most of the approach the huge, sweeping arch of Saif Din dominates the horizon — a beacon for any approaching climber and impossible to take your eyes off. Aim to stay on the faint path as best you can, trending toward the left-hand side of the Arched Wall.
The descent from any route is also on the left-hand side of the crag. Care is essential here — the ground is loose, the route-finding vague, and good mountain judgement goes a long way.
Why Not Saif Din?
On the Arched Wall is the eye-catching line of Saif Din, the E3 we initially had our eyes on. But after research — and strong recommendations from those who knew the route — we avoided it due to loose rock and significant objective hazard.
The alternative was Bowline, E2 5b, which begins up the same corner before breaking out onto the face and following a crack system all the way to the top.
Pitch 1 – A Runout Start and a Cave Surprise
Si was leading the first pitch and after calmly climbing the run out start he quested on up the wall. Confidently pulling through the crux he climbed to the belay stance in a small claustrophobic cave. All of the big gear required had been used lower down so Si opted to climb on to see whether an anchor could be built above. The crack above was uniform and still needed big gear, nothing else would work.
Facing a monster fall, Si managed to place a questionable cam and was lowered to collect gear before climbing back up to build an anchor in the cave. While seconding the pitch he was stuck in the cave, unable to stretch out and was blighted with cramp. Not an enviable position.
Pitch 2 – Chimneying Into the Void
I led the second pitch which climbed from the cave, facing the open vista behind, before grovelling up a wide chimney. Without the right size cams the run out was quite alarming but being nestled in the chimney, I felt secure, enough. Exiting the chimney required the up most care as the rock was friable. A large block was held in place by mud alone. Conscious of James and Simon below I teetered up the wall and traversed to the belay ledge around the corner. Grateful not to be climbing Saif Din as I could see mini fridge sized blocks waiting to cause misery for those who approached them.
For anyone who has climbed this since we did, you might find the Edelrid knife I left at the belay stance which was used to dig out a crack needed to build an anchor.
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Pitch 3 and the Finish – Easier but Exposed
The difficulties eased of from here, which could be seen from James confident lack of protection on the third pitch. After another pitch and a scramble we were on top. A true adventure route.
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